Hummer transfer cases run very hot and burn fluid. For anyone else contemplating a trans service you'd be better off dropping the pan first before you buy those screens. So I think that's where the misunderstanding in this thread has come from. I'm going to tell you up front that this is no small job especially if you are laying on your back without a lift. Disconnect the line as mentioned in previous posts, have your helper start the truck when you're ready, and just slowly add fresh fluid through the fill as the transmission pumps it out, being careful not to dump it in faster than it's being pumped out. It's pretty substantial with the metal lined holes Magnet in the oil pan showing the fine metal it picked up in 24,000 miles. I tried to drain the oil from the pan using the drain hole some older trucks don't have one.
It doesn't really matter what brand it is, so long as it is marked Type F Fluid. Good Luck trying to find the dip stick! Let me add something here. I found the new and old bushings to be the same so you don't have to remove the old bushing. It is in a red, ribbed bottle and costs around 13. Do not use in your transfer case.
You can safely replace all of the fluid in the trans with the following technique it may require a helper : Pull the pan and clean it. He also talked alot about John deer tractor hydraulic fluid and said that's what he would tell people to use when he was building them up for racing. I just changed my transmission in my 1997 Catera. The pan and the fluid that drains when you pull the plug or remove it hold 7 to 8 quarts of fluid. You fill through the dipstick tube.
Hummers use 3 different filters depending on the year of the truck. Start the car, and get a rag ready to wipe the stick. He was actually becoming allergic to most kinds of soap and cleaners, but thought it was the transmission fluid that was getting him. The manual transmission vehicles would break because guys beat the crap out of them or couldn't drive a stick shift and were all slowly converted or replaced with autos. The capacity for the 4L80E probably varies by year, too. I gets you 3 qts more capacity, some added cooling and - the best part - a drain plug for future fluid swaps. It is the first time I will be doing this myself.
Then pump all to replace, then top off?? Oct 17, 2011 the aan and mln is the modle it goes to. If the line has fluids in it, then replace the modulator. The Aurora had the 4. Have the helper kill the motor when you see the fluid change color. Start up the truck and look underneath for oil leaks. I can't tell you what the cost is to change the fluid and filter as I have not got the mileage on mine yet to have it done. Measuring how much goes out is a good idea.
Don't use a key that's too small or you will strip it. If you have a helper, start by having her take her shirt off so it won't get dirty. It was introduces in 1993 and phased out of production after the 2005 model year. Remember, you are checking the level cold. If you truly want to get the maximum driving experience, your ride requires the right additive.
The 4T80E modulator has a propensity to crack causing fluids to get sucked up into the vacuum line. We would two 6-10 ton trailers behind f-350's and if you weren't careful, you would burn up the transmission. The scavenger screens are visible once the pan is removed. I gets you 3 qts more capacity, some added cooling and - the best part - a drain plug for future fluid swaps. I Googled Motorcraft Type F, found a nice picture of it on their website and then called the local dealership. Then start the all the others.
Not sure but I seem to recall dropping the pan and removing the drain plug takes around 6-8 quarts. Remove the dipstick and clean off the entire length with a rag and oil. You have to remove the larger middle undercarriage protection piece, remove the center support beam for the transfer case, move the front drive shaft out of the way, try to drain the oil from the pan if you have a drain plug , remove the oil pan and get a bath of oil all over the place. Start the 4 bolts that face the front of the truck first because these are the hardest to get to. Using your automatic or manual transmission should be enjoyable, but not if your shifting capabilities are not performing optimally. From our performance valve bodies and lock-up torque converter to our pressure-tested seals and gaskets our 4T80E transmission is one you can buy with confidence last longer than any other transmission on the market. The 4T80 originally used a clutch, but this was changed in 2005.