Use a 36 mm axle nut socket e. When installing new studs position them to align with the serrations of the original stud. Remove the bailing wire and lower the brake caliper. Death Star, have you actually done this replacement? The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove. Tighten spring compressor further as needed for removal. Take your time and they will come out.
Advance auto is actually cheaper than Rockauto. The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove. That's how they pop them out if they don't fall out as mine did. To begin, jack up the car and remove the wheel. It does need to be replaced.
But let's try to find how much. Charge up your battery with jumper cables from another car. You need to be careful about this, as I said, the suspension arm is aluminum see blue circle in photo for the result of careless banging. The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing. Hardest part is removing the drums. And the just crawled under the car and hit the tire on alternate sides with my maul.
Remove grease cap from hub. At the back of the brake backing plate 2213 , remove the brake adjusting hole cover 2092. My rear bearings just arrived. Be sure you have the tools to do this job. So, to loosen the brake adjuster, you would rotate the star wheel 2 upward.
Is that just carb cleaner? It did smell like it had gotten hot and had an odor. At this point you will need the impact hammer to push the outer section out through the back. Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Then reattach the hub assemblies to the car. I can practice on driverside. On theses cars you dont actually replace just the wheel bearing, you have to replace the entire hub itself, the bearing is contained inside the hub.
Note: Do not panic, it will fit through this hole, but you have to play with it to get it out. And the hub popped right out. I ordered the Ford repair manuals and they have not arrived yet. And there's no mention of sealant, so the hardened gunk making the bearing even tighter must have been just corrosion. I told you it wasn't going to be fun to remove the drums on a rust-belt car. A lot of folks like to think this is complicated and hard without some difficult tools, but it's so easy compared to a ball joint, it's scary. This adds weight so that when you raise the lower control arm you don't raise the entire car off the jack stands and possibly tip the car over off the other jack stand.
It'll keep your hands cleaner. You should be able to see the rotor moving upwards when you have enough tension applied to the spring. I don't remember a dust cover. Reverse procedure to put back on. Don't forget that there are 2 push type pins directly behind the rear seat. The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire. Spray the thing down with brake cleaner before I install? The passenger side was worse and I had the dealer replace it because I had taken it to them prior to warranty expired telling them I heard and felt something.
Any shots of the sensor? Once the lower control arm is free, separate the wheel hub from the drive shaft spindle. At this time the drive shaft should be loose in the hub , if not make it so. I have a set of these on my mustang. Remove the brake caliper, if there are disc brakes, with the appropriate wrench and hang with bailing wire out of the way. This task may be accomplished at home in about an hour with the proper tools; doing so will save you a pretty penny in mechanic's fees. I have seen some hubs that have that.
Take the outer bearing out of the rotor. Anyone replaced a rear bearing themselves? You also need to remove the front bolt holding the lower control arm to the frame. After taking off the disc, caliper and the four bolts holding the hub, I remounted the tire on the hub. Slowly lower the jack that is under the lower control arm and the spring will decompress slowly. Turn the brake shoe adjusting screw nut until the brake drum 1126 begins to drag. Can get these at any automotive store This will save you breaking the back splash guard for the alternator.
Anyone replaced a rear bearing themselves? You Think it wouldn't be so hard to get the last inch forward? Before I even got the bolts out- the bearing was loose. Bearings are small steel balls held together by a metal band. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise rear of vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Then at this point you can just replace … the whole knuckle. Any shots of the sensor? Using the puller to push the spindle in give you more clearance to get that socket on those bolts.