Note that all three wires are secure and not abraided. Set it off jack onto cardboard?. Chevrolet should have recalled these … cars and put a better timing belt in them. I placed car in park to leave car momentarily. You might want to mark the spot so it goes back into the same spot. Just a note as well, when I purchased this car new, i received the book, but it got lost in one of my moves, pulling out the headlight assembly is a bit of a pain as it putting it back in, but there should not be a need to remove the wire clamp it does come off pretty easily once exposed. Go inside truck, tie a piece of wire below locknut, pull shifter up tight and tie off to grab bar on passenger side.
If you want to remove the flywheel and replace the oil seal now's the time. If you want it done not so shade tree replace the filter when you do the fluid change. The clamp will eventually rub through the metal lines and you will have a fuel leak. Quick note: try to avoid removing the clip, entirely. These are a interference engine which means if they slip on the timing the valves hit the pistons.
If the line is not leaking already wrap about four layers of electrical tape around the thinned areas. I T did not go into park properly and car proceeded forward through garage door. Then, add gear lubricant as required until full using a funnel. But don't let the effort cause the weight of the tranny to rest on the new disc. But I've never used it. It doesn't hold much, so make sure it does not run dry during bleeding.
There are handles on the sides of the clamp. Pull back on white plug. The only line I'd repair rather than replace is the vapor line. You will probably have to take it off the jack to get it out from under the truck. Check both high and low beams for alignment approx. After the pressure plate is tightened down, put everything back in reverse order.
This is a gear oil viscosity and has nothing to do with motor oil viscosity. Unbolt wire harness from side of tranny. While you are under there with the tranny removed, inspect the 3 metal fuel lines. It has to drain through everything to get to the pan! I started the engine and tried again and was happy. For install, reverse above instructions. I could not remove the bulb using just these instructions.
It will be your guide as to how far to screw the shaft back on. Either way you're going to have a 3-4 quarts of old fluid in the valve body and torque converter. After the wire harness is off, it is easy to get the headlamp cap off the big black gasket. Turn entire shifter ccw until it screws completely off. If you want to do it really cheap, just replace fluid.
If you aren't replacing the slave cylinder, open bleeder screw and let some fluid out. In fact, if the previous poster was able to do the driver side bulb without removing the battery, he's downright amazing. The vehicle was towed a dealer and an independent mechanic who stated that the timing belt failed and also caused the engine rods to break. It clamps the three lines very tightly, and being bolted to the engine, it transmits the torque forces to the more stationary fuel lines. To remove bronze bushing from the crankshaft: Take the new bushing to hardware store and find a large threaded bolt that will almost fit into it. Use the metal clip to your left to unlatch the bulb. They all 3 pass through a clamp on the passenger side held by the transmission bolt with the nut and ground strap.
If it's a new slave cylinder it will. Maybe get a helper under there with you. Fourth is my head lights and brake lights. I'll be doing my first oil change on the Aveo in about three weeks. Start with a full reservoir of brake fluid. It has a metal washer copper or brass color that, according to the owner's manual, can be used until the first 42k believe. Instead, I had to remove the front grill, then the headlamp assembly, and then the retaining clip inside of the assembly.