Posted on Feb 23, 2010 Your best bet have the instrument cluster tested. Now all you have to do is gently pry and pop the panel out. I was doing about 50 trying to figure out my situation. This is the first time it has stayed like this. Both work fine, but the dash lights don't come on when you have them active. Pulled out the instrument panel and checked the bulbs they all appear to be good. Then 2 days ago started truck, took off down the road and message center displayed battery problem, speedometer quit, tach quit, fuel gauge quit, radio began to cut out intermittently but oil pressure gauge was still okay.
However, make sure it is of the correct amperage. I've asked tons of mechanics and they always tell me they don't know. If its not right, make it right. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block. If only a portion of your instrument panel is functioning, such as your lights work while the speedometer does not, get your car to a pro. So something must be shorting out along the line from the switch to the panel to the radio. Its a 12 year old truck.
The last screw in on the very bottom of the whole door panel, you will have to get on your hands and knees to see this one yeah that's it right there. Remove this screw and pry out the door pockets. Press on the sides of the small black clip attached to the cable and it should push downward freeing the door panel and allowing you to take it off completely. Now would be a good time to remove the door light on the corner, same screwdriver, pry from the red lens side outward, once out, remove the wire termial. The Black Box is labled Fuse Relay Center, the diagram on the cap displays which Relay is the Fuel Pump relay. Not sure about the trailer brake or hazard fuses. I have hit bumps before and it has done this briefly, but usually when I shut it off and restart, it is fine.
If you don't have the manual, open your driver's-side door and look under the dashboard---sometimes these are covered by a panel on the underside of the steering wheel. Lol I hope he figured it out by then. I had a 75 and a 79 and the manual was useful for both. I turn the switch to all three positions and tried the dimmer for each one. Now you will need to remove the cover that holds the window and door lock buttons, same screwdriver and pry upwards just a little and should pop off. All that's left is the cable that's attached to the lever used to open the door.
So the computers were working fine. I put a used cluster panel in from the auto salvage yard. I know the guy installed an aftermarket Pioneer stereo and is making me think he did something wrong, because when the truck is running with the stereo on and I turn the headlights on the odometer and what gear i'm in go out. Are their any light's lit on the instrument cluster? Take something very slim and and pop it out of its groove and it should slide right off. There are about 5 fuses for the trailer harness, Trailer Back up,Trailer left turn, Trailer right turn, Trailer Brake, and Trailer hazards.
Unintended deployment of the air bag can cause serious or fatal injury. I replaced all the blown fuses found 4 and still nothing. If you suspect the instrument cluster start with that first. All that's left is the cable that's attached to the lever used to open the door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse. There is one additional fuse for the trailer harness.
Pretty common problem with these. The other weird location might be behind the seat. On your new radio wire harness, there was an orange wire marked illumination. While they were both delco parts, and the swapped unit plugged right in, the lights on the dash cluster flickered. To install, reverse the removal procedure. The crank for the window aslo has to be removed. The 15A fuse for the trailer running lights is located in the fuse panel under the hood, next to the battery.
When your head lights go on this wire becomes energized, and shorts out your dimmer switch. You need to remove this wire or cover it, then replace the dimmer switch. Gas gauge won't work, speedometer, drive, park, neutral lights don't work, then after I hit a few bumps, gas gauge starts working, drive, park neutral, etc. Then it would stop about 10 to 15 seconds then start again, then about 5 minutes later it started to do it continuously. He said it shorts out and causes knock sensors to read wrong and all kinds of gauge cluster glitches. Short to ground should trip fuses or burn wires. Recently installed new radio and power amp.
The cigerette lighter fuse is just above and slightly to the right of the radio fuse. If you press in on the door panel you can see a small U shaped key which holds the crank on. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the fuse block access door. After installing everything works great now my dash lights want work. All the gauges are dead, no function. Attempted to restart and would not respond to turned ignition. Pulled out the instrument panel and checked the bulbs they all appear to be good.
Happens more when it is cold outside. Press on the sides of the small black clip attached to the cable and it should push downward freeing the door panel and allowing you to take it off completely. I only suggest this because I has a problem once in my Lumina related to the stereo diming lead. Bring your vehicle to a professional as soon as possible. I have no odometer lit at all. Class2 data is a communication network for the control modules.