Thought new master cylinder might be bad, took new master cylinder back to parts store, exchanged master cylinder for Another new master cylinder bench bled new master cylinder, put the second new master cylinder on truck, bled front brakes, started truck, tried brakes, same thing, had soft pedal, low pedal, pedal would travel all the way to the floor with steady foot pressure. Be careful not to overtighten the bleeder screws. You've got air in your lines, I am sure on that. You would fix that by doing the standard brake bleed procedure on each wheel. Who ever heard of renting a book? Provide details and share your research! Most shops subscribe to either Alldata. In the '60s, you could repair any car in the world if you could memorize 5,000 pages of service manuals. When bleeding - Open the bleeder, push the pedal down, close the bleeder, release the pedal.
They did that with the owner's blessings and instructions to take care of our competitors because they were also our customers. Turborusty some of those are just soft from the factory. Even if your question leaves me wondering in some places what you mean exactly. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. Four people standing in line waiting for the first person to get done. I have seen those installed by backyard mechanics.
No one can keep up with everything anymore. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. I replaced the master and also got new shoes for the rear drums and bled the rear as well as re-bleeding the front. All you have to do is turn the wheels all the… I need help on how to remove my powersteering pump? This takes a very specific scan tool. Top off the master cylinder with clean fresh brake fluid. Wrenchtech, for super fast response.
Topping off the reservoir as needed. It took many pumps to get the old out, upwards of 30 at the right rear. I feel like I have no where to turn for diagnostic help, because usually I do everything except the one thing that was listed in a pin point diagram. Did u make sure the master cylinder never got low enough to draw in air? I do this once a year, its so quick and easy. I am the type of tech. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps. Let me know how you make out.
After the 2nd or 3rd time, it stayed clean honey colored. The brakes get seriously hot constantly and any moisture is steamed really fast. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid. Bleed brakes open bleeder put the hose on the fitting push slowly down 3 times.
As for fluid grades I always use the manifacture recomend because your system is spected to take a certain viscosity. I didn't try this, but I think it would have really helped. Or minor plus and minus's between both? Gee, with paper service manuals I can just let them lay open on the table. I will take pics of them and post them in a day or so. Modern brake shoes are a crap shoot because the days of measuring the drum and then arcing the shoes in the repair shop on a cam-grinder to properly fit the drum are long gone.
We were told to save what we printed so the next person could use them. Posted on Jan 30, 2010 Michael: You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder usually the right rear , then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. Sometimes they will be normal, other times usually when you are approaching the busiest intersection in town at a high speed and the light turns red they will halfway or completely fail. Is the car running when u bleed brakes? Also, as far as bleeding goes. Com or Mitchell OnDemand for information services. This is obviously where I'm leaking but I don't know exactly what part is bad.
Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. The big advantage, besides being able to write notes and find stuff quickly, is you own it and can use the information for the rest of your life. Loose the hard line and let fluid start to drip. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. I just bought the truck last week and my 2 wheel 97 c1500 never had this problem.
Best, Ken Well I got my brakes and callipers changed all around after that I hve no breaks I changed the master cylender its brand new bled the brakes 4 times allready and when I press the brakes it goes to the floor by it self just like its sucked in and you can hear air some place down there where you press the break just like its sucking air it seams like its comeing from the master boster where the rod goes in from the break pedal Replaced leaking rear wheel cylinders, shoes, and drums. Never quite got it right. We were told this would save paper. You're not actually getting brake fluid to move from the master resevoir into the lines progressively, and ultimately pushing all of the air out. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. Once I have had similar issues where I replaced brake components, but couldn't bleed by pumping the brakes.