They look good even switch some out with known good fuses. It is based, partly on info I found somewhere else, but I can't find where now. It may be the blower motor itself. This occurs when you continually set the blower motor at its highest setting in an effort to quickly cool down or heat up the cabin of the van. One day everything was fine, the next day, the blower would not blow. If it is getting power, then replace the motor. Return everything you had in the glove compartment and shut the door.
If it is getting power, then replace the motor. Lift the glove compartment door and squeeze inward near the tabs once more. Removing the defective blower motor and replace it should take 35 minutes. I changed both relays, and the blower motor,as well as the switch. There was always a small amount of air coming through, but without enough force to be fully effective. I would sure like to know if anyone else has had this specific issue, or has thoughts on it.
Replacing this motor is a no-brainer when you use AutoZone's promise of the right products for the right places, getting your car properly ventilated and running smoothly again in a jiffy. That is what I would recommend doing. Install the new blower motor just as you removed the old one. Do not attempt to do this if you are not mechanically inclined. I been looking at other questions and it says something about the resistor being bad, but they all seemed to work on high. Guage will come up to proper temp. Return and tighten all three of the cover's bolts with your socket wrench.
As the blower motor ages, it may stop working or lose some of its blowing capacity. It will have several wires going to it. Wait approximately 12 minutes before you continue the repair. The 6 wire harness plugged into a box just behind the glove box. Lift the glove compartment door and squeeze inward near the tabs once more.
There will be 2 wires, 1 blue and 1 black going into it to identify. Place the cover back over the blower motor. If there is no power to the motor, let me know and we will work backwards to identify the problem. Did the new one do the trick? If there is no power to the motor, let me know and we will work backwards to identify the problem. The problem was hard to ignore once the Pennsylvania winter kicked in and there was no fan for the defrost. If you look through the hole where the glove compartment door was, you should see the cover directly in front of you.
Back-feed the wires through the hole in the housing and allow them to hang from the blower motor. This problem happens every winter. I hoped this helped I'm no mechanic and I will not be responsible for any damage that you do if you follow these instructions and ruin something or get hurt. Could that be my isue as well? Nearly a year later, the blower still works, although I have lost the highest speed. One coming in with multiple wires and like I said I think they are the same wires leaving the switch. The cover is black and looks like a strangely shaped circle.
There are two screws holding the resistor into the air duct. It will not fit through the glove compartment hole. This happens when they start to go bad. I can live with that. This is the blower motor wires. The box that both harnesses plug into is the blower resistor.
I pulled the center console panel thinking it might be the switch. Hate to sound so novice. Higher speeds of travel helped push more air through, but that is downright dangerous when traveling on snow and ice. I couldn't get a voltage on the wires. Sounds like,maybe, the blower motor resistor may be bad. Lay the cable down within the engine compartment. As the blower motor ages, it may stop working or lose some of its blowing capacity.